Valencia, Spain's Third Largest City: Part 3... Neighborhoods, Port, and Playa

Of course, tourist sights and churches doth not a city make. Despite all of my efforts to sell Valencia as a wonderful place to visit, Valencia is a place to live in. Its true richness is its distinctive and vibrant neighborhoods ("barrios"). Here I'll briefly characterize the most well known and visible neighborhoods of Valencia.

This official district map offered by Valencia-cityguide.com is pretty good,
though I've added in the names (all in Catalan) of a few subdistrict neighborhoods

• El Carmen:

I already introduced you to Valencia's most famous neighborhood, El Carmen, in the previous entry. Named for the part of the old town that used to be orchards and gardens, El Carmen in Valencia is distinguished by its windy medieval-style narrow streets, comparatively shorter buildings and lots of local color. El Carmen here is also one of several hotspots for nighttime activity, so it's always crowded with club-hoppers Friday and Saturday nights. (Other good clubbing spots: Cánovas in L'Eixample and in the summer the beach clubs at Malvarrosa, among many other areas. I know there are good places in El Pla del Real, near the University, and I suspect there are spots in Extramurs. But these are the three areas I know from back in my days of clubbing here.)

• L'Eixample:

This neighborhood, really an entire city district, has the same namesake as its sister neighborhood in Barcelona, which is Catalan for "the widening" or "urban expansion"... both of which are true of it. Just like with Barcelona, this is the "new" as in mid 19th-century extension to the old part of town (a.k.a. "Ciutat Vella"). While it doesn't have buildings designed by Gaudí, it does has the impressive broad avenues and that high modern form of urban planning, grid layout, and it has some pretty beautiful Modernist buildings, facades and balconies.

I highly recommend a stroll down the median of Gran Vía Marques del Turia, to take in the elegant buildings' skyline while laughing at the contrasting inelegant marks of globalization on the shops at ground level (i.e. Starbuck's, KFC, and such). (It's a schism much like the one I described for Madrid's Gran Vía here.)

Edificio Chapa, one of several beautiful buildings to be found by walking
along Gran Vía Marques del Turia

Club hoppers might be more familiar with the other side of Edificio Chapa, at
Plaza de Cánovas, a common meeting point for going out clubbing in the area nearby

Not quite Gaudí, but pretty wild. This building is also on Gran Vía
Marques del Turia right where it meets Antic Regne.

Russafa: 

One place worth stopping at is El Contraste, which I learned
about recently because my wife referred me to it as one of the
few quality places that will make you these bunyols de calabassa
all year long. When I mentioned it to her dad, he got very excited.
Apparently El Contraste "es de toda la vida," in that he went there
when he was a kid. A good sign.

In recent years this neighborhood (technically a subsection of L'Eixample) has really come alive. For a while it has been the ethnic neighborhood, where you could find the best, or at least most authentic Chinese, Middle-eastern... and in the last few years, American food (it doesn't get more ethnic than that!). You might also recall "Russafa" from my earlier blog entry on Fallas. In mid March, this is ground zero for awesome neighborhood falles, and especially for seeing the most impressive light shows around Calle Cuba and Sueca.

Russafa also has many cool hangout spots. One such locale is Ubik Café (Calle Literato Azorín 13, 46006 Valencia; phone: 963 741 255), which is my dream of dream businesses, a bookstore / dining spot. Indeed, there is also a "carnicería librería" (bookstore meatshop) not far away with the excellent name Slaughterhouse (Calle Denia, 22 Valencia; phone: 963 287 755), that is a popular hangout. Perhaps for these reasons and others, Russafa has had a lot of recent activity organizing neighborhood events and festivals, most of which are targeted towards kids. Right now it is gearing up for its Carnaval festival. (Last December neighborhood shops started a "Ruzafa loves kid" fair.) There are a variety of websites and blogs which follow these events in the neighborhood. I direct you to Living Russafa as one such example, and Russafa CulturaViva as another, though there are others (on food; on neighborhood politics; etc.). All of this is evidence of how Russafa has really become a happening spot and definitely worth a pass through on your visit.

Café Ubik, one of many cool hangouts in the Russafa area.

I found this really nice collage of Ruzafa photos at Rincones de Valencia,
a pretty nice blog (in Spanish) about Valencia's different hidden corners and history.

An example of the "exotic" food you can find in Russafa. This Spanish chain, Taste of America,
just opened a store in Valencia last fall. It seems to be a hit as much or more with locals than
American expats. I saw a Spaniard outside it once pointing at a box of Americana food
and speaking an essay about how typical and amazing it was. When I looked
at the box it was Pop-Tarts. I almost laughed out loud.

Russafa also has a pretty large marketplace, Mercado de Ruzafa. Not so large and beautiful as the
Mercat Central, but it easily competes with the grand markets of other cities.

Gerry Blackwell snapped a picture of this Art Deco building facade in Russafa,
next to the train station. Like the rest of L'Eixample, it is worth checking out
the architecture and buildings of this neighborhood.

Benimaclet:

More than anything, Benimaclet is an interesting example of how much Valencia has changed and grown over the last half century. Not long ago it was just a "pueblo" (town) on the outskirts of the city. Now it is a fully integrated neighborhood. Benimaclet is in no way a tourist area. It is a neighborhood to be lived in. (This is my tip off to those future fellows and English teachers who ask me: Benimaclet, along with Russafa are the two neighborhoods I usually direct exchange students to on where to live and find a rental.) But like Russafa, Benimaclet is a vibrant, multi-ethnic, multi-cultural neighborhood. This is a popular area for Erasmus students (I've noticed the Mercadona here carries more products from other EU countries than other locations); it also has a street with many Arabic Halal meat shops. And yet at the same time it is a "de toda la vida" neighborhood, too. It is an interesting fusion, and while I couldn't say it's a "must-see" for tourists, it's a nice area to get to know if you want to get off the beaten path.

It also, as you can see from the pictured fruit shop below, has some surprising finds nestled into an otherwise humble area. One such pleasant surprise is En Bàbia Café, which I've mentioned earlier as one of a handful of place I've discovered in my adopted city that reminds me (pleasantly so) of my oh-so-missed coffee shops from back home in Austin, a chill, hip place to hang out and just chat. And like Russafa, it seems that the local business and neighbors are starting to organize a bit here, and create cool events and synergies. You can find out about them on "Yo Soy de Benimaclet," one of several Benimaclet blogs that have sprouted up recently which follow these neighborhood happenings with that kind of local, local pride that is typical of continental Europeans.

Deep in the neighborhood of Benimaclet, there is an amazingly beautiful fruit shop,
with purple tile exterior. You can find it at the following intersection:
Calle de la Murta and Calle de Mistral. Apparently it was in a scene in
Almodóvar's movie La Mala Educación (2004).

Plaza de Benimaclet in 1955
"Fotografía No. 22" digitalized by Víctor Serna, from an interesting blog
"Benimaclet com a poble" (Benimaclet as a town)

Plaza de Benimaclet today
"Fotografía No. 21" by Víctor Serna, from an interesting blog
"Benimaclet com a poble" (Benimaclet as a town)

Cabanyal:

Rita Barberá, who's been Valencia's city mayor forever,
will take some blows in Fallas this year for her rough
handling of the disadvantaged Cabanyal neighborhood

This is easily the most humble of Valencia's famous neighborhoods, Cabanyal has been at the center of a political storm the last three years over the very question of its continued existence. The debate can be summed up as follows (for a fuller and more colorful account of the debate, check out this website): Cabanyal is right next to the sea on prime beachfront real estate. Yet Cabanyal is a poor neighborhood with many social problems. (I am always having to warn incoming exchange students to _not_ look for apartments here, despite its proximity to the beach... Let's just say it's not a pleasant neighborhood at nighttime.) Enter the powers that be and urban planners. Cabanyal, the humble neighborhood, sits right in the path of an ambitious plan to extend the large and upscale Avenida Blasco Ibáñez (some of you may recognize it as the avenue where the University of Valencia's main campus is located). The idea is that Blasco Ibañez would become Valencia's Rambla, an open avenue that would reach the sea, thus further enriching Valencia's visual appeal as a tourism city.

Cabanyal has that characteristic fishermen's village look to it.
Because of recent economic decline, it can be patchy so far as
some areas looking picturesque but others looking run down.

Needless to say, many of Cabanyal's residents don't want to simply pick up and leave (particularly during an economic crisis) just to satisfy the grand architect plans of the city. Instead, they propose the city invest in renovating the neighborhood and lifting it up as a kind of Barceloneta, Cabanyal being the historical fishermen's village for Valencia much as Barceloneta is for Barcelona. I confess, part of me would love to see the urban reform and extension of the avenue to the sea. As it is, the neighborhood can be a bit of a disappointment to pass through on your way to the beach. Still, I can't help but also agree that the local government's handling of the whole thing has been inconsiderate and awful. Certainly, if you have time while visiting the beach, it is worth a stroll through this neighborhood to see a few of the restored historical buildings, which give you a glimpse of what the area could look like were the city to expend its resources on building it up rather than tearing it down.

Cabanyal stands in between the Avenida Blasco Ibáñez and the sea

El Teatro de Marionetas is one of the quaint historical buildings in Cabanyal
which makes the stroll through it worth it. It has also become
a site for those protesting the City's efforts to bulldoze the neighborhood,
their common chant: "Rehabilitació, ja! Sense destrucció"
(Rehabilitation, now! Without destruction).

You can find such pretty buildings all over Cabanyal. (Photos source: ARCA, see below.)

ARCA, or the Associació per a la Revitalizació dels Centres Antics, has photographed
some of these buildings in its effort to promote its campaign to restore Cabanyal rather
than bulldoze it for the extension project. I must agree that these buildings are its
most compelling argument. Why not create an L.A.-style Venice Beach instead of
a Barcelona-style Rambla?

This video offers a nice historical summary of Cabanyal 

and the current political debates about it.

Dear Valencian readers, don't be upset if I didn't mention your neighborhood. Don't worry, I didn't mention my neighborhood here either. This is not an entry about the best neighborhoods to live in (a contest I wouldn't want to enter in, since it would be incredibly difficult to judge). Just an entry about those more prominent neighborhoods that we all know about. I think you're neighborhood is great, too. I promise.

• Port and Playa:

And of course then there is the Port ("puerto") and city beaches ("playas") of Valencia. These two features, perhaps more than any others, have been what put Valencia on the map. (Though in the next entry I'm going to write about what I think _ought_ to put Valencia on the map.) In part this makes sense. Valencia's Port is the third largest (in terms of cargo movement) on the Mediterranean, and Spain's most important economically after (I believe) Bilbao. In other words, the Port of Valencia is a major economic engine for the region.

Its port is the reason Valencia is so economically important to Spain.
Contrary to what people often think, Valencia's is the largest cargo port
on Spain's eastern seaboard, substantially larger and economically
more important than Barcelona's

More recently, the Port has experienced an aesthetic renovation as a result of its hosting world famous boating race, The America's Cup for two years: the 32nd Cup in 2007 and the 33rd in 2010. Another change in the last few years: it is now common for at least one large cruise ship to dock at the port on a given day, and there are plans to increase its capacity to handle two. (In 2011, Valencia got around 200 cruise ship visits.) Indeed, when the AVE between Madrid and Valencia was officially opened last year, Rita Barberá famously said, in typical Valencian exaggeration and regional posturing, that the high-speed train transformed the port "en el puerto de Madrid" (the port of Madrid). (The AVE has radically transformed the economic possibilities for Valencia to capture some of the Madrid tourism traffic, since it is now only an hour and 20 minutes away by train!) All of this has powered much of the city's growth as a tourist destination in the last ten years.

Work in progress: Valencia has had a more mixed experience trying to build up the
touristy side of its port. The America's Cup helped to give it a major facelift. But there
is still a ways to go before it can compete with the Mediterranean's many
jetsetter-and-yacht themed ports.

The beaches, obviously, are its other major tourist draw, particularly in the summer. There is not much to say about them that is self-evident. They are nice for city beaches (real beach lovers will obviously avoid them for more secluded cleaner beaches). And there are several large beach clubs that ensure the beach is alive and awake late on a Saturday night. Perhaps it is only worth adding that _the_ city beach is recognized by locals as three beaches, listed here from south to north: Las Arenas, La Malvarrosa, and La Patacona. La Patacona is actually the beach belonging to Alboraia, a town to the north (renowned as the home of the famous Valencian drink, orxata, but that I'll save for a later entry). So even in high season there is plenty of beach to go around for everyone.

Valencia's beaches have both the wide paved esplanade for strolling and a _lot_
of beachfront. I sometimes wonder at the width of the sand, but it means that there
is always room for people, and also plenty of space for beach sports like beach
volleyball or soccer with friends.

The beach has become Paella Row

If you just _have_ to eat paella on the beach (in the Las Arenas zone), I recommend you skip La Pepica, which is designed to be informal and family-style, or Marcelina next door. They get all the tourist reviews, but this just reflects the snowball effect such reviews can have. Hemingway eats there, and suddenly everyone goes there thinking it must be the best. Instead I recommend you go for the more elegant, and by my friends and family's standards, better quality L'Estimat (Avda. Neptuno, 16 Playa de las Arenas, Valencia; phone: 96 371 1018), which is just a few more buildings down from the other two. I ate there recently and it was exquisite!

La Pepica and Marcelina Restaurants are oversold to foreign tourists,
appearing in almost every guidebook.

Let's face it, the number one reason to visit Valencia is the fresh quality food,
and especially the paella. Not only is it excellent at L'Estimat, but the chefs
were really cool about letting me photograph them cooking. The head
chef even invited me in to take a picture of me, and we started talking about
recipe books. So I could not recommend this place more highly!

The paella and fideuà is better quality at L'Estimat, and the view is just as good

• Coda: Day-trip to Albufera & El Saler

If you have a full week in Valencia, then I highly recommend you make the trip down to El Saler beach and nearby Albufera Park. El Saler is where Valencians go when they want a nearby beach and are able to get our of the city. And as I've already said in my entry on Valencian rice, the Albufera and nearby towns of Sueca and El Palmar is the heartland for paella, and the place to try it. You'd only need about half a day to take a ride on a boat on the lake there, followed by a delicious lunch at one of the many quality restaurants in the area. And then you can take a siesta on the beach at El Saler. The only catch is that you will probably need a car, though you can technically catch a bus there, or even ride a bike.

Why wait for a summer day to visit the beach? I snapped a photo of
tumbleweed on the El Saler beach on a wind, wintery day a couple of years ago.

I have one more entry to offer you on Valencia, and it is on my favorite feature of the city. So stay tuned!

Menorca… more than just beaches

Cala Macarella, south shore of Menorca

Sigh. Menorca is… lovely. I've travelled around a lot of Spain, and I have to say that this island really has it all, and certainly much more than just beaches. The Spanish journalist Josep Pla once said:

"cuanto más pequeño es un país, más largas son sus distancias." [The smaller a country is, the longer are its distances.]

Menorca is a fairly small island. It is easy to get from one point on the island to another in under 45 minutes by car. Despite this, it is chock full of things to do and easily yields itself to each visitor's specific itineraries or traveling tastes. Good food, wonderful scenery, historical sites, quaint towns, and a quiet, relaxed feel to it that makes it a great place to get away from it all. And, yes, it also has amazing beaches.

Of the four Balearic Islands, Menorca is distinctive for being the quietest (i.e. less clubs, less development, and less beach party tourism) and the most remote. In 1993 the island was declared a UNESCO biosphere reserve, and perhaps for this reason has more to offer nature lovers than the other three islands. Beaches are its principal natural resource. The most iconic beach is Cala Macarella, the one most likely to appear in photos of the island (because there is a cliff nearby from which you can photograph it). It is located on the southern coast on the western side of the island. If snorkeling is not great in Macarella (due to algae blooms or waves), then you can always walk 5 minutes further along the cliff shore over to Cala Macarelleta, where snorkeling will be good since the two calas are at cross currents to each other. For those looking for it, Cala Macarelleta also has the attraction of being a nudist beach. Not far from Macarella (about a 30-minute hike) is Cala Galdana, a very large, clear beach that is much more accessible and has plenty of hotels, places to stay, and dining options. Another good beach in the vicinity is Cala en Turqueta. On the north coast the beaches are very distinctive and breathtaking due to the reddish hue rocks and sand. Among those I would recommend is Cala Cavallería, which is slightly more complicated to get to, but for the same reason not so crowded as the other beaches. And there are many, many more. Amazingly enough, Menorca has more "calas" (beach coves) than any of the other Balearic Islands, even more than Mallorca which is five times larger in size.

The nudist beach Cala Macarelleta, a 5-minute walk from Macarella

Cala Galdana, a good beach to book a hotel at

Cala Cavallería, on the northern coast where the rocks and soil often have a reddish tinge

A "Camí de Cavalls" post marking
the many nature trails around
the island

The other distinctive natural resource of Menorca are its "camí de cavalls," 186 km. of horseback riding trails which run along the coasts of the island and make for great nature hiking. There is a strong horse tradition here. There is one horse for every 30 inhabitants, the island has its own local "Pura Raza Menorquina" breed, and there are regular horse festivals in the island's towns. (Here you can find a great Spanish blog post on Minorcan horse culture.) For this reason I highly recommend you try horseback riding here. Many stables will offer tours which run either through the interior (through the agrarian pastureland and with hillside views of the island) or down to beaches (sometimes even entering the water).

As if beaches and horseback riding weren't enough, Menorca also has a large number of ruins and archaeological sites. The Torre d'en Galmés site is the largest and is really quite impressive. You are able to walk through the ruins, into the remains of the houses. And it is located on a hilltop so that you have views of the sea and can even make out the mountains of the nearby island Mallorca. We arrived to the ruins around sunset, which added an extra level of enchantment to the visit.

A house in the Talayotic (i.e. Bronze Age megalithic) site, Torre d'en Galmés

Menorca only has 90,000 regular inhabitants, and about one third of them live in the capital Mahón, another third in Ciutadella, and the rest in smaller towns. Mahón is the main entry point for the island by boat and airport, and its main tourist attraction is its large, picturesque port, which lies at the base of a cliff upon which is seated the town. Besides this, it is a good place to go shopping since it has a lot of venues and markets. I will confess that I found Ciutadella, which is located on the opposite side of the island, to be a much more enjoyable town to walk around in, though both are quaint and reasonably more lively than the rest of the island, providing more dining and shopping options than elsewhere. Two other cute towns to visit are Alaior, located in the interior, considered the birthplace of the island's famous cheese, and which has a really excellent non-tourist small-town vibe, and Binibequer, which is famous for its all white buildings and iconic seaside, Mediterranean look. And for what has to be one of the most incredible clubbing experiences on earth I highly recommend a visit to the Cova d'en Xoroi, located in Cala en Porter. The club is built inside a cliffside cave, raised several hundred meters above sea level, with views out onto the sea. Visiting this club is like stepping into one of those fantasy clubs that appear in movies, but it's actually for real.

Sunset view of Ciutadella's quaint port

The picturesque town of Binibequer, on the southeastern corner of Menorca.

 Enjoy breathtaking views of the sea while sipping your mojito at the Cova d'en Xoroi cliff-side cave club.

You'll see a lot of people carrying these
boxes back with them on the plane.

Despite the island's modest population, there are several local artisanal traditions which make for great gifts. The _classic_ gift, which you will see many Spaniards bringing back with them in the airport, are "ensaimadas," a sweet pastry originally from the larger neighboring island Mallorca, and which is package in an iconic octagonal box. Menorca is specifically known for its "menorquinas" sandals, footwear that was traditionally worn by field workers but are now quite popular throughout Spain for lounging or the beach. Among local food traditions, Menorca is famous for its local cheese, "queso Mahón," and also the soft sausage spread "sobrasada," the latter also originally from Mallorca, both worth sampling. (Might I recommend a "bocadillo de sobrasada y queso," sobrasada and cheese sandwhich, as a great meal for budget travelers.) And one can also try the classic Minorcan dish caldereta, a local version of fisherman's stew.

Minorcan horses performing "el blot" a traditional dance
staged at the island's many horse festivals

By the end of my visit there all I could think was, how can I find a way to settle here and never have to leave? However, upon talking to the locals, I quickly discovered that Menorca is, perhaps, not the perfect place to live, and better left for visits. It is an island of migration. Many of its few steady residents are originally from elsewhere and came to live there to work in the huge tourism industry. Most residents desperately seek to leave the island for several months throughout the year in search of "culture" and population. As one tourism guide put it:

"¡es difícil vivir en una isla tan pequeña y limitada!"

This partly owes to the fact that the end of the beach tourism season is marked by a sudden, dramatic drop in island population and activity. Everything becomes a ghost town, many venues simply close. I visited in September and a recurring comment by local inhabitants and tourism staff was about how the island becomes _very_ quiet starting October. (They called October the start of "winter season"!)… And that people needed to escape this oppressive quiet by finding life on the continent or abroad.

Still, Menorca is a magical place, and a wonderful destination for those in pursuit of relaxation, meditation, or a place to recharge and reboot.

The quiet, pastoral interior of Menorca with its characteristic stone fences.

Costa Blanca: The British Invasion

A couple of weeks ago I spent the weekend at a friend's beach apartment near Torreviejas, in Alicante. Or to put this in British speak, I was "on holiday" in "Costa Blanca." (See entry on the "costas" of Spain.) It is a surreal experience visiting this part of Spain. The costal regions of Alicante have basically become British and/or German colonies. My friends and I call it "Guirilandia" (see entry on "los guiris"), because you are more likely to hear English or German spoken here than Spanish.

Hemingway would have been scandalized by it. These beachfront areas have an odd seasonal cycle, alive and vibrant during the summer, and nearly ghost towns during the winter. They fill up with low-cost tourism from Britain and Germany during the summers, mostly beach tourism for families, but also the kind of drunken, crazed youth tourism which generates periodic discussions here about whether this kind of public drinking should be more strictly controlled, or whether beach clubs should close earlier. (Indeed, not shown in pictures here are the vomit stains one finds all over the sidewalks in this area.) One could say they are England's Acapulco or Cozumel; instead of "Girls Gone Wild," think "Brits Behaving Badly."

The urbanicación of La Zenia, apartment complexes and commercial centers crammed
along the coasts of Alicante, a.k.a. "Costa Blanca."

A typical "neighborhood" in these tourist trap beach zones.

While locals, the few there are that live here, are understandably frustrated by it, the reality is that many of these towns have been literally rebuilt and reborn by this kind of tourism. These beachfront zones, many of which aren't even actual pueblos, but only "urbanizaciones," all have a cookie-cutter organization, with tons of two-story residence townhouses or apartments within walking distance to the beach, organized around commercial shopping centers with at least one Irish pub, a supermarket, tourism shops, and at least one "bazaar chino" (Chinese bazaar), the Spanish equivalent to a dollar-store. (The explosion of construction of these beach apartments over the last decade is partly to blame for Spain's current housing crisis.)

But what is so striking about Costa Blanca is the number of retired people from Britain and Germany who've turned these enclaves into home. In fact, it is not uncommon for some urban zones to have become largely German or British beach towns, while others cater more specifically to the domestic beach tourism industry (which means madrileños from Madrid). These retirement immigrants form a significant, but frequently overlooked part of foreign immigration to Spain.

A British & Irish Convenience Store where expats can find supplies from home

For those American expats who have had more than enough Spanish culture and therefore might enjoy a break from it, visiting here (for a short time) can even be kind of fun. Surely, the best German food, or Indian restaurants and Kebab shops in Spain can be found here. On my visit, I had some amazingly good German food at Bassus in one such urbanización, La Zenia, south of Torreviejas. One can also find nearly every kind of supply a Brit might be missing from home in specialty shops catering to these expat communities.

And let's face it, the reason all these guiris are here is because the beaches are really quite lovely. A nice discovery on this visit was the walkway along the beachfront, passing between the different calas and hugging the cliffs and rocky coasts, between the cala of the Hotel La Zenia and the Cala Capitán. A very romantic nighttime stroll!

The beach next to the Hotel La Zenia in Alicante, with clear waters and excellent for sunbathing.

Sol y playa: Beach tourism and the "Costas" of Spain

A little over ten years ago, when I first visited Spain, I arrived on an overnight ferry from England. The Portsmouth to Santander boat. Being new to Europe, I knew nothing about Spain's usual tourist denizens. I was en route to Madrid and then Andalucía, following the common American pilgrimage of Lorca and gypsy Spain. So when one of the Brits onboard asked me, "Where are you going, cost-a del sol or cost-a brava?", I didn't know how to answer. I imagine it surprised them when I told them I wasn't visiting a beach. (It was August after all.) But I will confess that I didn't even know where Costa del Sol or Costa Brava were.

I'm pretty sure Hemingway was not much of a beach goer, and when he wrote about sand in Spain he was surely writing about bullfighting rings rather than beaches. But let's face it, the number one motivation for most tourists coming to Spain is probably its beaches. Perhaps Blasco Ibañez's work Sangre y Arena (blood and sand) would today be rewritten and titled "Sangría y Arena." I'm using this entry as an excuse to educate myself and readers about Spain's typical beach regions, the famous "Costas" that Brits flock to in hoards, each with their slightly different regional flavors and beach experiences.

Putting aside for the moment Ibiza (and the other Balearic islands) and the Canary Islands, the principal "sol y playa" destinations in Spain are probably Costa del Sol (Málaga), Costa Brava (around Barcelona), and Costa Blanca (south of Valencia around Alicante).

Costa del Sol (Sun Coast) runs along the south of Spain, Andalucía's Mediterranean coast, is most heavily populated by British tourists who frequently fly directly into Malaga. Its most (in)famous beach towns are probably Torremolinos and Marbella. This beach zone is popular because tourists can take breaks from the sun with daytrips to famous Andalusian sites like Ronda or Granada, and enjoy the local British Spanish tradition of sherry jeréz. To give you a sense of the high caliber of tourism it can attract, it is periodically referred to in British news as the "Costa de Crime" and exposé-ed as a place where British criminals like to hangout and lay low. One hilariously honest explanation for this: "Spain is an attractive place to go and hide because of the weather and the lifestyle." Hey, even criminals need vacation!

No longer a fishing village. Mass beach tourism at Lloret de Mar,
a town one guide not long ago described as having the highest
concentration of hotels of any point along the coast.

Costa Blanca and Costa Brava are similarly infested with low-cost beach tourism, though they have a higher proportion of German and French presence, respectively. Costa Blanca (White Coast), the southeastern coastline of Alicante, is distinguished by its large community of German and British expats, retirees who have settled in this area making it a near permanent expat colony. The airport of the capital Alicante, followed by Valencia, are the most common entry points for this British invasion tourism; Benidorm, Torrevieja, Jávea, and Denia are several of its more prominent beach destinations. Costa Brava ("Rough Sea" Coast), is the northeastern coastline north of Barcelona running up to the French border. Many of its more famous beachtowns, Tossa de Mar and Lloret de Mar, for example, were once fishing villages that have been highjacked by beach resort development and transformed into seaside resorts. The tourists here are more heavily French, and more often families, too, since they can do a road trip south. Though there is also the Barcelona effect on tourism, since visitors from other countries (particularly Italy and Britain) can fly into to the Catalonia capital (or into Girona on lowcost carriers) and combine a tour of Barcelona with a weekend at the beach.

And what of the other Costas? Frankly, if it is not along the Mediterranean coast, then chances are that Brits and other foreigners haven't heard of it. The Costa Verde (Green Coast) of Asturias and Costa Vasca (Basque Coast) of the Basque Country have beautiful beaches, but the weather is substantially less sunny and the North Atlantic Ocean water notably colder. So not quite as alluring for laying out in the sun and getting that perfect tan. That said, these areas have become popular alternatives for Spaniards seeking to avoid the mass tourism of the other Costas, and the hiking trails, picturesque fishing villages, and amazing local food make them attractive tourist destinations in their own right.

The rugged, green and tranquil coastlines of the Basque Country.